Frequently Asked Questions
- Why won't the air conditioner cool the 2nd floor?
- How do I save money on my heating costs?
- Why does my furnace burner cycle on and off?
- Why does my air conditioning coil freeze up?
Why won't the air conditioner cool the 2nd floor?
With air conditioning, the 2nd floor requires more air flow to keep it cooler than the 1st floor and is usually the furthest away from the fan. Place your hand over the air vent and compare the air flow to the first floor. You will probably find a lot less air flow. Closing off balancing dampers (located on the supply air piping) to the basement and first floor can improve the air floor. The dampers on the floor grills can be used as well, but they do not control air flow very well. They provide more on/off control than balancing. Be careful not to choke off the air supply to the evaporator. This coil requires 350-400 CFM per tonne in order to work properly or else it will freeze and damage the compressor.
Setting the thermostat fan switch to on will help to even out the temperature between the floors, by providing a continuous air movement or, where space allows, an air booster can be added to the duct work. These can be wired to the supply fan or to any 110 volt power source and switched on by an air switch.
How do I save money on my heating cost?
- Proper annual service on the equipment!
- Set the thermostat a few degrees lower at night and when you are away during the day.
- Use properly sized equipment.
- Use multi-speed or variable speed furnaces.
- Make sure the equipment has a proper combustion air supply.
- Use a good quality air filter, and change it regularly.
- Add humidity to the air. Insulate and seal the cracks in your home. (Don't forget to provide fresh air for the furnace)
- Properly seal any openings in the vapour barrier (i.e. electrical outlets, windows, door, exhaust vents).
- Use an air to air heat exchanger (HRV) for combustion, ventilation and exhaust air.
There two things that normally cause this:
Short cycling on the high limit switch is caused by overheating. This is normally caused by a lack of air flow, clogged filters, faulty fan, and/or restricted duct work. It can also be a cracked heat exchanger. Both can be very serious and should be dealt with immediately.
The anticipator setting on the thermostat . On a mercury thermostat, there is an adjustment (0.2 to 1.4) which sets the cycling rate of the furnace - lower numbers for shorter cycles, higher for longer cycles. Older standard furnaces are usually 0.2 to 0.4. mid-efficiency and high-efficiency are longer 0.8 to 1.2. On mid-efficiency furnaces it is very important for the burner to run a few minutes before turning off. Short cycles will result in flue gas condensation and will prematurely rust out the furnace, vent connector and chimney.
Using the guidelines that normal operating conditions are:
- 65°F to 105°F for outdoor temperature and 72°F for indoor temperature
- airflow of 400 CFM per ton I.E. 2 TON AC = 1000CFM (Cubic Feet of Air Per Minute )
The air conditioning coil above your furnace should be at 40°F. If the outdoor temperature falls below 65°F or the indoor temperature falls below 72°F or the airflow is below 400 CFM/ton, it will reduce the evaporator coil temperature. Once the coil falls to 32°F it will begin to freeze over and block the air flow, reducing the air flow and execrating the freezing process.
Common causes:
Dirty Filters, dirty fan, loose fan belt, blocked or restricted ductwork, poor refrigerant piping, an undercharge or over charge of refrigerant, oversized compressor, under sized evaporator or a combination of the above. A freeze stat can be clipped onto the evaporator coil to shut down the compressor when the coil begins to freeze.